Mumbai is known for its cosmopolitan culture. Its a city which has welcomed people from all over the globe. Some of these immigrants have left interesting impressions on the architecture,culture and culinary heritage of the city. A quiet but a definite impression on Mumbai has been of Zorastrian Iranis. Mumbai boasts of Irani cafes and also some restaurants which give us a taste of Zorastrian cuisine. Irani cafes flourished in Mumbai when it was metamorphosing itself into an important city in the Country. Mumbai had just started attracting crowds from all over the country in search of employment. It was becoming a city of dreams,a city of hopes,city of opportunities. It was having a large working class. Probably to cater to the needs of people who had left their homes and families behind, Irani cafes and Mumbai special Udipi restaurants came up in Mumbai. Many Irani Cafes were established in the early 20th century. It is interesting to see that a thread of continuity flows through these Irani cafes even now.
Kayani and Co. is one of the oldest Iranian Cafe in Mumbai. Lot many writers,bloggers,travelers have written about it. I am neither a writer nor a traveler. But just like many others, I am tempted to write about "Experience kayani" . kayani and Co. is strategically located, bang opposite Metro theater. In the usual glam of Mumbai eateries, kayani stands out for its simplicity and even its kinda lackluster appearance. Not everybody would prefer to go to kayani. Foodies from all over the world, would certainly be interested in visiting kayani for its long tradition and culinary specialties. The moment you enter kayani, you encounter an old style furniture, walls full of photo frames,posters and many straightforward instructions to customers! Old teak-wood furniture draws your attention and you wouldnt miss checkered table cloth on all tables. Moment you are seated on one of the tall back chair, you would notice a menu card inserted above the table cloth and below the glass placed as table top. Convenience! Menu cards dont have to be circulated from table to table. They are there on all tables, safe and easily visible.
Bun Maska and Irani style Chai is USP of Kayani. But dont make a mistake of sticking only to Bun Maska. Kayani has lot many experience on offer for you. and they are all worth experiencing. Bun maska here is a kind of what we call now, "bread butter". But, bread is nowhere close to soft and fluffy bun that you get in Kayani. Our taste for butter is whats developed by "Amul" But before Amul took charge of our tastes, many bakeries in Mumbai offered, Maska. It used to be a bar which is neither too hard nor too soft, slightly yellowish in colour, wrapped in butter paper. Bun Maska in Kayani has maska which is not as salty as butters that we get all over. Quantity of Maska applied to bun is just right. Bun Maska and Irani Chai is 'Must have" in Kayani. But, I am a coffee person and not Chai person. kayani did not disappoint me. Coffee that came in old style white cup was neither too milky nor too sweet. And bun maska tasted equally delicious with Coffee. For non vegetarians, Kheema Pav is certainly a feast. Mava cakes, all kinds of pastries are available here to satisfy sweet tooth.
Road outside Kayani is one way now, full of traffic. Buses moving ahead, cars and taxis paving way , people hustling and bustling to cross the road. I wonder how many such days and months and years must have been witnessed by kayani. It must have seen wide roads of South Mumbai. So has it seen Mumbai growing from a small business city to a Metropolitan city and now a Megapolis. It has seen Iconic Metro theater converting itself to Multiplex. Kayani is also one of the oldest surviving Irani cafes in India. It represents Zorastrian culture which is a quintessential part of Mumbai culture but now on the verge of extinction. Kayani has satisfied hunger pangs of large working class of this city at affordable price. This Irani cafe doesnt have a hurry of Udupi restaurants of Mumbai. kayani even now is a laid back place. Nobody seems in a hurry here. You can enjoy just a cup of chai here for half an hour without uneasy glances by the staff. Kayani offers tasty food at reasonable price. It is not greedy about attracting crowds. Kayani is what it was when it was established. With changing times, few things may have changed but Soul of kayani continues to be what it has been. On one end I see a quiet,simple Cafe which has been there for over a century.On the other end, I see busy road of South Mumbai where everybody seems to be running for something. As I relish my Bun Maska, looking at the street, an inevitable sadness grips me, Chaos outside will soon overpower this simplicity!
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